Copenhagen's Nyhavn

Nyhavn is a 17th century waterfront, canal and entertainment district in Copenhagen, Denmark. Stretching from Kongens Nytorv to the harbor front just south of the Royal Playhouse, it is lined by brightly colored 17th and early 18th century townhouses and bars, cafes and restaurants. Serving as a heritage harbor, the canal has many historical wooden ships. (Source)

For those in search of the well-loved children's story writer, Hans Christian Andersen, Nyhavn is the place. Nyhavn was constructed by King Christian V from 1670-73, dug by Swedish war prisoners from the Dano-Swedish War 1658–1660. It is a gateway from the sea to the old inner city at Kongens Nytorv (King's Square), where ships handled cargo and fishermen's catch. It was notorious for beer, sailors, and prostitution. Danish author Hans Christian Andersen lived at Nyhavn 18 for some years. (Source)

Nyahvn was busy the day we visited.

The weather was beautiful that day and perfect for walking around the harbor.

Busy harbor.

As ocean-going ships grew larger, Nyhavn was taken over by internal Danish small vessel freight traffic. After World War II land transport took over this role and small vessel traffic disappeared from the Port of Copenhagen, leaving Nyhavn largely deserted of ships.

In the mid-1960s, the Nyhavn Society was founded with the aim of revitalising Nyhavn. In 1977, Nyhavn was inaugurated as a veteran ship and museum harbour by Overborgmester i København (Copenhagen’s Lord Mayor) Egon Weidekamp. (Source)

In my experience, Nyhavn is the perfect place to eat ice cream on any warm, sunny afternoon or the place to have lunch or dinner with friends. While we were there, I enjoyed sitting at the harbor, watching the ships go by, munching on sausages we bought from a street vendor and nodding my head to music played by a band from a nearby cafe.

A perfect afternoon spent at Nyhavn, Copenhagen.

Goodbye To Kronborg

I felt a sense of satisfaction as we left Kronborg Castle. I came to Copenhagen and visited all the places on my list. The feeling of relief comes as our trip to Denmark is coming to a close.

A portrait of Shakespeare.

Cannons facing the Sound Oresund.

A tunnel that I have no idea where it goes.

 Our visit at the Kronborg Castle ended with a meal of Denmark's open-faced sandwiches. Before boarding the train back to Copenhagen, Kepi and I ate at a random sandwich shop near the castle. With chilled bottles of Coke, we enjoyed the open-faced sandwiches with liver pate, ham and fried fish.

Whenever I visit a city or a country, I research and try to found out what are their famous eats or what their country is known for. Before I flew to Denmark, I read about the Danish open-faced sandwiches called Smørrebrød (originally smør og brød; Danish for "butter and bread"). According to Wikipedia, these sandwiches are usually consist of a piece of buttered rye bread, a dense, dark brown bread. Pålæg (literally "on-lay"), the topping, then among others can refer to commercial or homemade cold cuts, pieces of meat or fish, cheese or spreads. This daily practice is the base on which the art of the famous Danish open sandwich, smørrebrød is created: A slice or two of pålæg is placed on the buttered bread, and then pyntet (decorated) with the right accompaniments, to create a tasty and visually appealing food item. (Source)

Just a little history on these open-faced sandwiches: In the Middle Ages, thick slabs of coarse bread called "tranches" (late 15th century French) or, in its English derivative, "trenchers", were used as plates. At the end of the meal, the food-soaked trencher was eaten by the diner (from which we get the expression "trencherman"), or perhaps fed to a dog or saved for beggars. Trenchers were as much the harbingers of open-face sandwiches as they were of disposable dishware. As such, open-face sandwiches have a unique origin and history, differing from that of the true (multi-slice) sandwich. (Source)

Searching For Shakespeare's Elsinore

It is but fitting to start with a quote from Shakespeare's Hamlet:

It faded on the crowing of the cock.
Some say that ever 'gainst that season comes
Wherein our Saviour's birth is celebrated,
The bird of dawning singeth all night long:
And then, they say, no spirit dare stir abroad;
The nights are wholesome; then no planets strike,
No fairy takes, nor witch hath power to charm,
So hallow'd and so gracious is the time."
- William Shakespeare, Hamlet, 1.1

While researching about the must see places in Denmark, the castle of Kronborg stood out for me especially when I read that it was the castle Elsinore used by Shakespeare in his play Hamlet. It was like walking to a Shakespearean play that came to life.

The town of Helsingor is about 30 minutes from Copenhagen and it is easily reachable by train. From the station, it is about 15 to 20 minutes walk to reach the castle. For those who love Shakespeare, this place is a must see.

Traversing the narrow streets of Helsingor.

From the train station to the castle, we passed through this garden with dancing maidens.

Our first sight of the castle.

The castle has for centuries been one of the most important Renaissance castles in Northern Europe and was added to UNESCO's World Heritage Sites list on November 30, 2000.

One of the more ornate ceilings.

A really interesting window.

Window overlooking the Sound Oresund.

Kronborg Castle in Elsinore, at the seaward approach to The Sound Øresund, is one of northern Europe's most important Renaissance castles. Known all over the world from Shakespeare's Hamlet, it is also the most famous castle in Denmark with about 200.000 visitors each year. (Source)

Kronborg is known by many also as "Elsinore," the setting of William Shakespeare's famous tragedy Hamlet, Prince of Denmark. Hamlet was performed in the castle for the first time to mark the 200th anniversary of the death of William Shakespeare, with a cast consisting of soldiers from the castle garrison. The stage was in the telegraph tower in the southwest corner of the castle. The play has since been performed several times in the courtyard and at various locations on the fortifications. Later performers to play Hamlet at the castle included Laurence Olivier, John Gielgud, Christopher Plummer, Derek Jacobi, and in 2009 Jude Law. (Source)

Lunch At Hillerod

According to the Hillerod's website, the city is "a modern and pulsating city, with its own unique flavour. The bustling life of the town square and pedestrian street set in the surroundings of the fairy tale castle and picturesque lake are truly exceptional. The city centre is dominated by the magnificent renaissance castle and gardens, built and once inhabited by the King and his court. The castle itself is now a museum, but the church within is still very much in use." (Source) This description got it right, and if I were to go back to Denmark, I wouldn't hesitate to hop on that train to visit Hillerod again.

Here are a few more photos from the Hillerod area:

 This is still part of the castle gardens.

 I think this was an old church. We walked around the lake and found the church closed.

 At the castle gardens.

 The residential area near the castle.

A photo I took while we were walking away from the castle.

 After that delightful visit to the castle and gardens, we decided to have lunch in the city center. I got me a big glass of cold soda.

 Kepi had a plate of beef, salad and fries.

I ordered some sort of omelet, salad and fries. My plate was really delicious and very filling.

The joys of travel - beautiful views and a fantastic meal.

Interior And Gardens Of Frederiksborg Castle

The beauty of Frederiksborg Castle resonates inside and out.

There are times I enjoy exploring one place without a map or a brochure, my visit to Frederiksborg is one of them. Sometimes, I get too involved with the history of one place that I end up ignoring the beauty around me. This time, I didn't pay attention to the brochure or self guided audio tour about the castle.  I simply walked the castle's rooms not minding what it was for, what is it made of or who designed the rooms. By simply enjoying the walk and admiring what is laid in front of me, I saw more and understood deeper the meaning of the place. Sometimes, travel is not about the history or the significance of one place, but simply being "there."

The welcoming hall - I love the arched ceilings.

I adore that white dress to the right.

The chapel inside the castle. There was someone playing the organ while we were there.

Access to the main chapel was restricted because they were preparing for an occasion.

One of the painted celings.

The castle gardens.

The gardens are well kept and perfect for an afternoon walk.

A view from the garden. You could see the grey clouds started appearing, but I refuse to leave.

Luckily, it didn't rain so we stayed longer and too more photos. We also walked around the residential area close to the castle. This is really a beautiful area to visit.

Here's a bird we saw enjoying the pond. I think he's looking for prey.

The beauty of this area really enchanted me. While Kepi and I were walking to the train station, I told him that if I could move, I'd like to move to Hillerod, own a house near the castle. The train to Copenhagen hummed through the beautiful country side. Truly, I admit. Denmark has caught my heart.

Denmark's Frederiksborg Castle

From Copenhagen, we hopped on a train to Hillerod. It was a thirty minute ride along Denmark's green country side. When we got to Hillerod, we had to figure out which direction was the castle; there were no signs at the train station and there was no customer service to ask for information. Coincidentally, there was a couple from California who were also looking for the castle and we all decided to just walk and ask the locals. In a matter of minutes, we were able to figure out where we're supposed to be heading.

I was in awe when I saw the castle across the lake. Kepi and I bid goodbye to the California couple as they kept walking while we decided to stop for photos.

It was a good 15 minute walk until we finally reached the front of the castle.

A fountain in front of the castle.

This is the main entry to the castle after crossing the moat.

More of Frederiksborg Castle to come.

Postcard From Denmark

Frederiksborg Castle is one of my favorite castles in Denmark. The location, the castle itself and the gardens are simply spectacular.

Frederiksborg Castle is situated in the centre of Hillerod on three islets in the Castle Lake surrounded by Frederiksborg Castle Gardens.

Frederiksborg Castle Gardens consist of a romantic landscaped garden and a baroque garden, recreated in 1996 according to studies of J.C. Krieger's gardens from 1725. (Source)

The Little Mermaid Of Copenhagen

After the Gefion Fountain, we took the bus to see the Little Mermaid. What I had in my mind was the Ariel in Disney movies - you know, red flowing hair, fair skinned and beautiful voice.  Well, the sculpture is very simple but very iconic.

 The Little Mermaid symbolizes the fairy tale by Danish author and poet Hans Christian Andersen, the story of a young mermaid who fell in love with a prince who lived on land, and often came up to the edge of the water to look for her love. (Source)

The story of The Little Mermaid is not a very happy one - she visits a witch and agrees to give the witch her tongue, in exchange for legs to replace her fish tail, so she can live on land with her love, the prince she's seen from her visits to the shore. And every step she takes on her new legs hurt like she is walking on swords. To be with her love she chooses to become a mute and to be in pain with every step she takes. Yet despite all her dreams and sacrifices she never gets to be with him. (Source)